[Twingo]

Da, o sa te trag de urechi. :party1:

[Darren]

o sa-ti dau flashuri daca ma tragi de urechi.. sau sting farurile cand ne intalnim

Un posesor de E46 a scris urmatoarele:

Citeaza

Auto leveling is weird and distracting until you get used to it, and even then it inspires a vague sense of nausea as the light cutoff does things slightly out of phase with the car’s movements.

de asemeni..

Citeaza

[...]the ZKWs had a better beam pattern. The ZKWs had a flat cutoff across the mid-beam, with a pronounced kick-up on the right that illuminates the curb. The Xenons also have a nice cutoff, but they are missing the kick-up on the right side, meaning you don't get the same light thrown on the curb/ditch. It doesn't seem like a big deal until you're in a rural area trying to spot deer.

Citeaza

I haven't noticed the lack of 'kick-up' on bi-zenons, but its self-leveling is definitely more 'bobbly' and annoying than in pre-bi-xenons (like mine). My 01 monoxenons(?) definitely have that 'kick-up' and is one of my favorite features of the lights. No problems with unlit side-of-highway signs.

Maybe these two are the tradeoffs to having xenons available in high-beam mode, a function I really don't miss.

[Dee]

Am inteles ca Instalatiile Panasonic Xenon aftermarket sunt foarte bune si au un pret bun. Bosch la fel dar cu pret mult mai mare.
Hella ofera solutii integrate, adica tot blocul optic cu lupa bec, instalatie etc. Sunt foarte bune insa extrem de scumpe un set putand ajunge la augsburg la 32 de milioane ROL.

Exemplu:
Kit Simplu Xenon
-productie Japonia- Matsushita (Panasonic)


Kitul contine:
- 2 balasturi electronice de ultima generatie productie Japonia (Matsushita / Panasonic)
- 2 BECURI xenon hid (high intensity discharge)
- elemente de fixare cum ar fi benzi dublu adezive si fase din plastic pentru asigurarea balasturilor
- instructiuni de montaj (manual)
- certificat de garantie
Pret. aprox 1400 RON

Eu am vazut la automobile toyota si lexus ca unele componente electrice si farurile cu halogen si Xenon sunt Matsushita.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de Dee: 23 februarie 2007 - 06:32

[Dee]

M-am interesat la un prieten care doreste Xenon aftermarket si mi-a spus ca exista in RO o firma care monteaza si ofera garantie la kit xenon aftermarket de productie germana cu balasturi Hella. Pretul este de aproximativ 1700 RON insa cica este cel mai bun kit pe care il are firma respectiva.

[im570rm]

Nu contest faptul ca cele facute in germania nu sunt mai bune,clar tzin mai mult probabil in loc de 3000 de ore au 5000 sau ceva de genul dar pretul e de 3 ori mai mare aproape.Voi comentati eu atat am avut de zis.

[Dee]

pai eu nu comentam nimic ci doar expuneam niste variante de calitate. Si in general calitatea se plateste. Daca tot pun Xenon aftermarket pun ceva de calitate si calitatea se vede in timp.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de Dee: 23 februarie 2007 - 10:14

[im570rm]

pai si eu ce am zis altceva?
Am zis doar ca sunt mult mai scumpe,pot sa adus si cele din germania dar nu e rentabil ca nu toti avem bani de ele.M-am gandit ca o varianta mai ieftina ar fi mai rentabila pentru toti.In fond nu am pus pistolul la cap nimanui fiecare cumpara ce vrea nu?

[Dee]

Eu nu m-am luat de ce aduci tu. Explicam doar de ce cred eu ca merita banii aia in plus. Si tu ai dreptate insa. La romani argumentul principal de achizitionare intre 2 produse e de obicei pretul. Nu m-am contrazis cu tine. Enuntam doar o idee generala.
Sa va spun si o chestie on topic. Eu am fost de multe ori orbit de faruri cu xenon sau bi xenon cu autoleveling ORIGINALE de la Seria 5 si in special TOUAREG....Din cauza denivelarilor prea multe practic instalatia de autoleveling nu are timp sa se adapteze 100% corect si sa directioneaze fasciculul de lumina corect intotdeauna. De asemenea am fost orbit de Xenoanele de la Octavia II cand veneama asta vara de la mare. Din sens opus venea ceea ce cred ca era o Octi RS care din cauza iregularitatii suprafetei de rulare imi dadea practic mici flasuri. Deci Xenonul OEM nu e garantie ca nu veti orbi pe nimeni. Darren e un om foarte civilizat si faptul ca el doreste sa respecte ceilalti participanti la trafic e de laudat. dar trebuie sa inteleaga faptul ca nu intotdeauna autolevelingul salveaza situatia. De cate ori nu ati fost stresati in oglinda de Xenonul altuia? fie el si din fabrica.
Dupa parerea mea problema la acest Xenon AM este faptul ca se pierde garantia la partea electrica a masinii si ca multe produse sunt de calitate indoielnica si ajungi sa mergi toata ziua la schimbat balast sau bec.
Nu o sa va dea nimeni amenda ca aveti Xenon after market? ati auzit de un asemenea caz? Credeti ca Bitza stie care e Xenonul aftermarket sau care original? Credeti ca stie ce e ala Xenon...? Si RAR-ul se trece fara frane si fara anvelope ca lumea si cu becuri din 1988.Credeti ca niste becuri mai performante ar fi o problema. Sa ramanem totusi realisti.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de Dee: 24 februarie 2007 - 09:44

[Darren]

Cred ca teoria despre autoleveling e buna, dar nu pe soselele de la noi.
La BMW E46, M3 de ex, senzorii care masoara apasarea puntilor (deci unghiul de inclinare al caroseriei relativ la sosea) sunt doar 2. si nu sunt montati pe punti, ci sunt montati pe bratele de suspensie de pe partea dreapta
LE: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=05&hl=1
Cum soselele de la noi sunt "incretite" mai mult pe partea dreapta, se intampla ca rotile de pe partea dreapta sa oscileze si automat senzorii de autoleveling ajusteaza inaltimea fascicolului de lumina conform cu datele primite, insa caroseria masinii ramane dreapta (sau aproape dreapta), mai ales daca se ruleaza cu viteza mai mare.
Un alt motiv pt care masinile dotate cu autoloveling sunt deranjante in trafic este si faptul ca putini merg la service cu masina sa-i reseteze acest pozitia 0 pentru acest sistem. La Mercedes si BMW stiu ca se poate seta care este pozitia 0 pentru autoleveling, folosind softul de diagnoza specific fiecarui model. Daca posesorii de astfel de masini nu fac in mod regulat aceste resetari. Cum rigiditatea suspensiei scade, iar inaltimea masinii variaza in timp, autoleveling-ul poate ajusta prost farurile, mai ales daca mecanicii sugereaza ca arcurile sa fie schimbate cand se rup sau cand se observa urme pe spirele arcurilor care tradeaza ca arcurile se comprima la maxim (pana cand spirele se ating intre ele), in loc sa masoare daca inaltimea suspensiei de pe fiecare punte este in limitele date de producator. Si chiar daca posesorul n-ar avea bani sa schimbe arcurile, macar sa-si reseteze "zona 0" a sistemului de autoleveling.
Pe de alta parte, in functie de istoricul masinii, "zona 0" poate fi setata de producator ca fiind inaltimea masinii cu o anumita incarcare (rezervor full, 20 kg in portbagaj, sofer de 90kg, etc), sau poate in trecut a fost resetata de unul din posesori, customizat dupa obiceiurile lui de deplasare cu masina.

Cred ca autoleveling-ul a fost inventat special pentru soferii care uita ca farurile lor se pot regla cu un buton din bord in functie de greutatea din portbagaj sau numarul de pasageri din masina. Si cum n-ar fi fost fun sa vezi bombe pe roti cu xenon in faruri care au porci sau porumb in portbagaj, si a caror faruri matura tot de pe sosea, au inventat sistemul asta "anti-nesimtit". Din pacate.. are si el punctele lui slabe. Probabil sunt si modele cu 4 senzori de nivel care isi fac treaba mai corect decat cele cu 2 senzori (insa nu stiu ce modele de masini au asa ceva)
Eu personal imi reglez tot timpul farurile in functie de conditiile in care merg. In general prin oras sau cand merg in coloana las farurile sa bata in pamant, indiferent de incarcarea masinii, insa daca merg pe autostrada sau pe o sosea mai libera, le ridic la pozitia corespunzatoare incarcarii masinii (nu neaparat 0).

Cred ca primul pas pe care o sa-l fac este sa-mi cumpar niste faruri "cu lupa" care sa proiecteze fascicolul de lumina asa cum imi doresc eu ("taiat" orizontal in partea stanga/centru, cu o mica ridicare a fascicolului spre partea dreapta a drumului), pe care sa le upgradez cu D2S.

Sper sa nu ma traga nimeni de urechi, promit sa nu uit sa reglez farurile din buton atunci cand este nevoie, si sa le spal atunci cand se murdaresc. mai ales ca am instalatia de spalat faruri montata.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de Darren: 24 februarie 2007 - 11:30

[Darren]

Mi-a venit o intrebare in cap: ce temperatura este potrivita pentru becurile xenon? 5000? Sa fie legal, dar sa merite diferenta de pret fatza de halogene. Mentionez ca nu vi le bag in ochi.
LE: 6000K ?

Aceasta postare a fost editata de Darren: 24 februarie 2007 - 12:54

[Dee]

Tocmai si-a luat un posesor de Astra H un set de XENON HID SIEMENS la 820 RON. La 6000 k se vad albe albe cu o usoara tenta de albastru. Daca sunt prea albastre pun mai putina lumina pe drum insa se vede mai frumos. Cel putin in teorie. Cel mai bun compromis este un 6000.

[Darren]

ce inseamna "set".. banuiesc ca doar becurile la banii aia, nu?

Eu vreau sa vad bine drumul (fara ochii celorlalti soferi), si nu ma intereseaza cat de frumos se vad. Deci 6000K o sa iau. (cand o sa iau )

[Dee]

Nu..becurile cu tot cu balast si toate cablurile. Nu e foarte suprinzator pretul pt ca si la Scurt si-a pus kit xenon original Hyundai cam la aceeasi suma.

De la HELLA niste FAQ

Where can I get installation instructions for my Hella auxiliary lamps?
Installation instructions are available on-line. Click here.

Can I get Xenon/HID replacements or retrofits for my car’s headlamps?
Hella, Inc. offers Xenon retro-fit kits for select US vehicle models at this time: The BMW 5-series, the Mercedes-Benz E class, and the Mercedes-Benz M class. These kits replace the existing OE headlamps with complete Xenon headlamp units designed specifically for the vehicle model. These are the only Xenon headlamp retro-fit kits that Hella sells. Universal Xenon conversion kits that claim to be from Hella are neither produced nor sold/endorsed by Hella.

Unfortunately, there is not a standard sized HID conversion kit for all vehicle makes/models due to differences in lens and reflector designs. Converting a halogen headlamp to HID is not only illegal, but it will dramatically increase the glare and danger to on-coming drivers. For more information on why you should not attempt to convert a halogen headlamp to xenon, please see the excellent article from Daniel Stern on this subject. Additionally, for the US DOT opinion on the legality of these universal kits, please see the following press release.

There are better, safer ways to improve your lighting. For now you can get some of the benefits of HID by going to a conventional filament bulb filled with Xenon gas such as our Xenon Whites range.

Why should I use auxiliary lamps?
Original Equipment headlamps in the USA are manufactured to FMVSS-108 and SAE standards. These standards allow for a wide variety of performance. Lighting at the high end of the scale is quite good; lighting in the middle to low end of the scale can be dramatically improved via the use of auxiliary lighting.

Good light means less driver fatigue and therefore safer motoring. Hella has developed a range of high-quality Auxiliary Lamps, which, at night, in fog, or in other adverse weather conditions provide a higher degree of safety on the road.

Why should I use Hella Driving Lamps?
While driving at night, normal visual acuity is decreased significantly and the eye becomes overstressed due to the absence of light. Hella Driving Lamps provide a greater range of vision with brighter, more evenly distributed light that illuminates dangerous objects in the road and gives the driver more time to react and avoid potential hazards.

Why should I use Hella Fog Lamps?
Darkness, humidity, and moisture are natural enemies of good driving vision. Fog, rain, and snow cause the light of standard headlamps to be reflected back into the driver’s eyes, creating a wall of haze. Hella Fog Lamps shine beneath this haze, reducing glare and improving visibility. Additionally, Hella Fog Lamps are equipped with specially designed reflectors that evenly illuminate the width of the road.

What is the difference between fog lamps and driving lamps?
Driving Lamps project a long, narrower beam of light, in a variety of beam patterns, designed to provide vision at a greater distance. Fog Lamps provide a low, wide pattern of light, designed to shine below the haze created by fog, rain, and snow, reducing glare and improving visibility significantly in inclement weather. Driving lamps are typically used in conjunction with your high-beam headlamps; fog lamps are typically used in conjunction with your low-beam headlamps.

Is it legal to drive with my driving lamps on all the time?
Many of the auxiliary lamps offered by Hella are for off-road use only. Please check your state and local ordinances before installing any auxiliary lighting on a vehicle.

What is Xenon and HID lighting?
Xenon is the main type of HID (High Intensity Discharge) lighting. Xenon is a gas which is very conducive to stabilizing an electrical flow (imagine a controlled lightening bolt - like a spark plug). Unlike conventional headlamps, there is no filament in an HID lamp, meaning that short of a crash, the units are nearly indestructible. The amperage flow in to the bulb is very high (about 25,000 volts), but then stabilizes at about 10,000 volts and produces a much whiter, smoother beam pattern than halogen lighting technology.

How do I aim my European technology headlamps?
Set your correct tire pressure, and then park the car on a flat surface facing a wall, parking 25 feet away. Measure from the ground to the center of each headlamp and mark this spot on the wall. Measure the distance between the headlamps and mark this on the wall. Turn the lamps on. Center the high beam on the mark on the wall. Stand behind the car and make sure the beam is parallel to the direction of travel of the car. Check your adjustment by switching to low beam. The low beam horizontal cut-off should fall about three inches at 25 ft. below your mark on the wall for the center of the headlamps. Finally, take a test drive, as aiming is partially a matter of personal taste and vision.

For driving lamps, aim them as you would your high-beam headlamps.

Can I buy colored replacement parts for my VW Jetta or Golf from Hella, Inc.?
Hella does manufacture a range of colored replacement lighting for VWs in Europe. Unfortunately these parts are not yet SAE-approved, meaning they are not legal for driving in the USA. We are aware that certain importers (such as NOPI) do offer these products, but Hella, Inc. does not sell these parts in the USA.



Un alt articol referitor la TOPIC poze si explicatii aici http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...onversions.html
Thinking of converting to HID?

So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb. STOP! Put away that credit card.

An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. NEVER endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.

Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.

A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.

This diagram shows the very different characteristics of the filament vs. the arc:





When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are *the* driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.

Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.

As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is reason enough!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:

The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.

The latest gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs. (A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes!) What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.

In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.

The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.

It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".

HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs, but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.

What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers agree: DON'T!

The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the WHOLE shemozzle—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage. But just putting an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs is bad news all around.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please note: From time to time, I am asked to comment on what are marketed as "new developments" in HID kits, and those asking sometimes point out to me that these "new developments" might render this article out-of-date, since the copyright date on the article is older than the date of these "new developments". Please understand, marketeers will always be coming up with dazzling new pseudoscience, tempting new hype and sneaky new ways of trying to convince you to buy their stuff. It's what they do. This article will never go out of date, because the problems with HID kits are conceptual problems, not problems of implementation. Therefore, they cannot be overcome by additional research and development, any more than someone could develop a way for you to put on somebody else's eyeglasses and see correctly.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Daniel Stern Lighting (Daniel J. Stern, Proprietor)

[Darren]

Foarte bun articolul
In concluzie.. o sa-mi pun HID doar cand o sa cumpar faruri construite pt HID.
Cam atat despre povestea kiturilor HID aftermarket care se potrivesc in lampile construite pt halogen.
:tomato:

[Dee]

Nu te descuraja. Acela este doar un punct de vedere. Este clar ca instalatiile Xenon ofera mai multa lumina si nu e chestie doar de perceptie. trebuie doar sa cauti ceva de calitate si sa ai grija cum le reglezi ca sa nu-ti bati joc de cei din trafic.

[Darren]

Pai.. omul ala a explicat clar ca dpdv optic, farurile construite pt halogen nu vor functiona cum trebuie cu HID (vor lumina mai prost, si cu o eventuala perceptie de "lumina mai puternica", din pacate inselatoare). In special paragraful unde face comparatie intre lumina produsa de filament si cea produsa de arcul electric.
Daca as pune HID pe blocurile optice de halogen as arunca banii pe fereastra, oricum ar lumina soseaua doar in apropierea masinii, si as pierde iluminarea in departare. Or, exact asta vreau: sa vad cat mai mult din sosea si obiectele de pe marginea ei, fara sa-i jenez pe ceilalti participanti la trafic. HID parea o optiune rapida pentru asta. O sa ma orientez catre imbunatatirea luminii cautand becuri halogen.
Poate cei care si-au pus HID pe masina (kit aftermarket) vor sa ne impartaseasca din experienta lor: pros/cons pentru HID upgrade pe blocuri optice de halogen.

[Dee]

Eu am stat si mers intr-o masina cu HID aftermarket Matsushita si iti garantez ca bat la orice ora la o distanta mai mare fata de orice halogen. Si spun asta avand pe Astra unul dintre cele mai bune halogene de pe piata de la Philips. Este o lumina extrem de alba si clara si reflectia la semnele rutiere este de 10 ori mai buna cu Xenon.

[SirAvalon]

Pana la urma sistem de spalare faruri aftermarket a gasit cineva? Se poate instala asa ceva? Autoleveling am deja, se pare ca numai asta imi lipseste ca sa-mi pot pune xenon.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de SirAvalon: 01 martie 2007 - 03:37

[Darren]

Eu am pus OE de la dezmembrari
Iti trebuie vasul, pompa pt spalat faruri (e de presiune, nush daca merge una de spalat parbrizul), stropitorile, furtune si racordurile aferente, un alt spoiler, indemanare, fire, sigurante, relee si alte nimicuri de prins firele frumos. Daca vrei sa fie profi, iti schimbi si maneta din bord care comanda stergatoarele, dar pregateste-te sa scoti niste bani pt aia ca e scumpa (noua).

[andrei041]

Ca sa nu mai deschid alt topic, expun aici problema.

Asta seara, dupa ce am trecut peste niste denivelari/gropi (deh, Romania), farul de pe partea dreapta a incetat sa mai functioneze. I'am mai zgandarit eu balastul si contactele, insa nimic. Maine vreau sa ma uit mai atent p'acolo, poate e vreun contact imperfect, totusi.
La ce anume ar trebui sa fiu atent cand umblu la instalatia de xenon? (vreau sa incerc si sa probez becul in cauza in partea cealalta, sa fiu sigur ca nu e de la el). In afara de a nu atinge direct cu mana becul (sau astea n'au stress ca halogenele? sau daca au, cu ce sa le manipulez? carpa curata e de ajuns?), la ce ar trebui sa fiu atent?
Cum as putea depista daca balastul ar fi cel de vina?

Becurile originale, cu halogen, le am in torpedou si daca nu ii dau de cap maine cred ca revin la ele. Pentru acestu lucru, trebuie scos de pe traseu balastul, nu? Cum pot verifica daca un balast e stricat? (sau astea de obicei nu prea pica?)

In cazul in care e doar becul defect, culoarea luminii cum o pot afla? (si acum am vaga impresie ca nu's aceeasi culoare). Farurile sunt cu lupa

Din ce'am vazut pe net, becurile cu xenon sunt D2S (cele de la Philips), undeva in jur de 200-250 lei/perechea, insa se gasesc si undeva in jur de 80 lei, insa alea zice doar H7 (asta ar fi la becurile normale de la Philips). Deocamdata recunosc ca n'as da 250 lei pe bece ... insa vreau sa stiu daca u e posibil sa arunc banii aiurea cumparand d'alea la 80. Sau mai bine sa revin la cele normale pana cumpar Philips sau macar o marca mai cunoscuta?

[Marius*]

E putin probabil sa fie becul dus, avand in vedere ca xenon-ul nu are filament.

[andrei041]

Pai da, dar din cate am gasit pe net, au si ele un anumit interval de functionare (1500 e cam minim garantat, dupa care cica ar scadea intensitatea), iar dupa 2-3000, cam pica.

Aceasta postare a fost editata de andrei041: 06 septembrie 2008 - 01:57

[Marius*]

Si la tine a scazut intensitatea, si-a schimbat culoarea? Eu cred ca de vina este un contact imperfect.

[andrei041]

Fata de cum erau de noi (nici macar nu am apucat sa intreb de cand sunt instalate ) nu am cum sa'mi dau seama, nu pot face comparatie. Cert e ca nu mai merge unul din ele.
Acum cateva seri am mai patit'o, insa nu se aprindeau deloc ... si porneau deodata in mers. Aia clar e treaba de contact imperfect

[andrei041]

Pana la urma am scapat usor ... era arsa rezistenta de 15 care ducea la farul din dreapta. Am pus una de 10 in loc si merge normal acum